The Manuscript Codex * Structure
CHEVRON PATTERN IN A SECONDARY ENDBAND

A characteristic V-shaped or zigzag pattern, the predominant pattern found in Islamic endbands. Woven with two threads, often of different colors, one thread is taken under a tiedown (or group of tiedowns) while the other passes over that tiedown (or group). The two threads are then interlocked by twisting one over the other in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction before continuing with the passage of the threads in the same manner across the endband, over and under the tiedowns. The twisted interlocking of the threads causes them to lie at a slight diagonal to the direction of the weaving. If the interlocking direction of the threads (either clockwise or counterclockwise) on one tour of weaving across the endband is reversed on the next tour, the diagonal slant in each of the tours diverges, creating the V-shape characteristic of the chevron pattern. This alternation of the interlocking direction is maintained on successive rows in the endband.
# This structure (and others like it, see: striped vertical pattern and striped diagonal pattern) which are worked on the primary endband sewing are sometimes referred in the literature as secondary endband sewing. This designation, sanctioned by long use, is not strictly accurate since the structure is woven and not sewn.
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UBL Or. 1196

 

 

AUTHORS: PAUL HEPWORTH AND KARIN SCHEPER